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Posts Tagged ‘melanin’

5 Reasons Why Vitamin C Should Be A Staple In Your Skincare Routine

In beauty, skincare on November 15, 2024 at 3:47 pm

From brightening to anti-aging, Vitamin C Is your skin care superhero.

Have you ever looked in the mirror and been less than pleased with the way your skin looks?  Dull. Uneven. Uninspiring.  Sure you have a regular skincare routine that includes cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen.  You may even use the occasional manual or chemical exfoliation.  All of that is great however you may still find that your skin needs more – brightening, lift, clarity and hydration.  What you need is a product that contains a key ingredient that will address the concerns you have and the ones you didn’t know you had.

That Key Ingredient Is Vitamin C  

We are all familiar with Vitamin C because of the foods, beverages, and supplements we take.  It is also what we turn to when we we not feeling well since it is a well known fact that Vitamin C helps to restore and keep your immune system strong. Vitamin C is also “responsible for the growth and repair of the tissues in all parts of the body” (1) and can aid in the prevention of certain diseases and disorders such as stroke and high blood pressure (2).  With all of the amazing benefits that vitamin C provides internally, how much more will your skin benefit from using this ingredient on a regular basis to make it better?

Vitamin C In Skincare

Vitamin C, whether in moisturizer or serum form is one of the most powerful ingredients in your skincare routine.  It is a multifaceted ingredient that does the heavy lifting for some of our more pressing skincare concerns and here’s how:

  • It is a powerful antioxidant with anti-aging benefits.  Antioxidants are ingredients that help fight free radical damage caused by environmental aggressors such as dirt, UV rays and pollution.  Free radical damage leads to photosensitivity, hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.
  • Helps with collagen growth/synthesis.  Collagen, which decreases with age, is a protein that lives in the deeper layers of the skin.  It is responsible for the structure and firmness of the skin as well as the connective tissues in the body.  Vitamin C helps to stimulate your body’s natural collagen production, thus keeping the skin firm.
  • Improves wound healing.  This ties back to collagen production and the fact that it is responsible for the connective tissue in the skin.  When you have an injury to the skin due to a scratch or even an acne breakout, Vitamin C will help with collagen production/synthesis to rebuild the structure of the connective tissue of the skin so that it is healthy again.
  • Helps to brighten the skin and leads to overall clarity.  Vitamin helps to regulate melanin production leading to overall evenness of the skin.  When you experience hyperpigmentation/discoloration perhaps due to injury or breakout, Vitamin C helps to inhibit the overproduction of melanin by inhibiting melanin synthesis.  This is done by “downgrading the activity of an enzyme known as tyrosinase.” (3) Vitamin C also helps to calm down redness.
  • Brightens dark under eye circles.  Depending on the root cause of the darkness, Vitamin C can be the answer.  For instance, if the darkness is caused by hyperpigmentation such as eczema, allergies or perhaps a late night, Vitamin C can help.  Unfortunately, if that darkness is hereditary (appearance of pooling or dark veins) Vitamin C will not help much.  In these cases, a color corrector and/or concealer can help.

What Are The Most Common Forms Of Topical Vitamin C?

The most common form of Vitamin C is l-ascorbic acid (LAA).  It is the most researched, the most popular and the most potent.  It is very effective in addressing a myriad of skin concerns.  There can, however, be a downside to using this highly potent form of Vitamin C because it is highly unstable.  This can lead to irritation such as itching, redness and burning and is most likely the reason why many steer clear of Vitamin C altogether.

There are other forms of Vitamin C which can be more gentle to the skin and help to alleviate some of the discomfort one may experience, especially when first starting out.  These forms include Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP).  The former, SAP is better tolerated for sensitive skin without necessarily causing irritation and purging.  SAP still contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and can be helpful to people with acne or rosacea (4). The latter, MAP, which is a more stable form of Vitamin C, is great for hydration, collagen production and works for most skin types (5).

How To Use Vitamin C Correctly

When first introducing Vitamin C into your skin care routine (or any new skin care product for that matter), you want to start slowly. Consider using it every 2-3 days until you are able to use it daily.  Mix your Vitamin C serum into a moisturizer or use a Vitamin C infused moisturizer.  The best time to use Vitamin C is in the morning after cleansing and toning and before your moisturizer and sunscreen (if using in serum form).  Using Vitamin C in the morning benefits your skin because of the powerful antioxidants it contains to protect your skin against environmental aggressors.  It is important to follow up with a broad spectrum sunscreen to maximize the benefits of Vitamin C.

Serum vs Moisturizer 

When it comes to choosing a formulation of Vitamin C, it comes down to personal preference and skincare need.  Serums are usually more lightweight and have more potent ingredients.  Since the molecule of a serum is smaller, it will penetrate the skin more deeply to do more repairative work for concerns such as deeper lines and hyperpigmentation.  Moisturizers on the other hand are thicker and will do a better job of hydrating and nourishing the skin.

The Best Concentration Of Vitamin C

When looking for a Vitamin C skincare product – whether it be serum based or a moisturizer, there are several things to consider.  First things first, consider the concentration.  Concentration between 8%-20% is considered to be the most effective.  Anything below 8% may be ineffective whereas anything over 20% may cause irritation.  When searching for the right concentration of Vitamin C, look for ingredients that are included in the formulation such as Vitamin E, ferulic acid, glutathione, and hyaluronic acid.  These ingredients not only can boost the efficacy of Vitamin C but can also act as a buffer (Vitamin E, hyaluronic acid) against irritation and dryness.

How To Store Your Vitamin C Skin Care Products Properly

Because of the instability of most Vitamin C skin care products, it is important to look for packaging that is opaque and dark to protect the ingredients from light and air sources.  Not doing so will degrade the product thus rendering it ineffective.  You can actually store your vitamin c products (as well as other skincare products) in a refrigerator for preservation.  Be sure to take it out a few minutes before use.  Also, as with any other skin care or beauty product, pay attention to expiration dates.

Paula’s Choice 25% Vitamin C + Glutathione Clinical Serum

Drunk Elephant C- Luma Hydrabright Serum

Ole Henriksen C-Rush Vitamin C Gel Moisturizer

Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream

Sunday Riley C.E.O. Glow Vitamin C +Turmeric Face Oil

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic

Supergoop Daily Dose Vitamin C + SPF

PCA Skin C&E Advanced Serum

Hyper Skin Brightening Clearing Vitamin C Serum

Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum

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  1. Mount Sanai “Vitamin C ascorbic acid”
  2. Mount Sanai “Vitamin C ascorbic acid”
  3. Healthline “11 Reasons To Add Vitamin C To Your Skincare Routine”
  4. City Skin Clinic “All The Different Vitamin C Skincare & And How To Find The Best One  For You”
  5. City Skin Clinic “All The Different Vitamin C Skincare & And How To Find The Best One  For You”

8 Popular Beauty Myths You Should Stop Believing

In beauty, hair, makeup, skincare on October 23, 2023 at 12:00 pm

When it comes to things like beauty, everyone has an opinion, a trick, and a solution for every beauty need and desire. Whether it’s information that has been passed down from your grandmother, tips and tricks from your best friend, or your favorite beauty guru, there are many beauty routines and regimens that we have committed to for years that keep us looking our best. Or so it seems. This is because there are many schools of thought related to beauty that may actually be a myth.

Now if you feel that what you are doing on a regular basis is working for you don’t change. However, it’s still good to examine our thought process and approach to many of the things that we accept as fact. Below are 8 very popular beauty concepts that we have accepted through the ages that are actually myths.

You Can Make Pores Smaller/Go Away. I totally hate to be the bearer of bad news but pores don’t get smaller or go away. EVER. Also, it would be nice if skin care and makeup companies would stop lying to those who have enlarged pores with empty promises of their magic pore shrinking lotions and potions. Now, everyone has pores. Everyone. It’s just that some people, usually those with oily, acne prone skin, have larger, more visible pores. Furthermore, pore size is determined genetically. For pores that “look” larger, they can be stretched when clogged with dirt and sebum. This is where appropriate skincare plays a role. Daily cleansing, gentle exfoliation, as well as using a detoxifying mask and things like peel pads can help pores look more refined. As far as makeup is concerned, there are certain primers have blurring effects that can also make pores look more refined. But again, pores don’t get smaller or go away. EVER.

Skin Adapts to Skin Care Products So You Have To Switch To Something New. Skin, which is our largest organ, is ever changing and evolving. What your skin needed 3 months ago may not be what your skin needs today. Think about why you bought a particular item for your skin, maybe to help with a particular concern that you had. Do you have that concern now? Not necessarily because the major skin changes might have already taken place so the results won’t seem as dramatic although the product is working the same way it always has. If you want to switch up your skincare, that’s totally fine but just know you don’t have to switch to a new product because your skin is “used” to your current products.

Wearing Makeup Daily Is Bad For Your Skin. Granted there are some makeup formulations that can irritate your skin, causing inflammation and breakouts. But makeup isn’t inherently bad for your skin. Also, skin doesn’t need to breathe because skin is not made up of tiny lungs. Now clogged pores – that’s another issue. Pores are tiny openings in the skin that release oils and sweat – not oxygen. Be sure to cleanse your face thoroughly on a daily basis and use the proper skincare formulation for your skin type. If you feel like you want to take a break from wearing makeup, that is never a bad thing. Have at it.

You Can Repair Split Ends. This is simply not true. You can use products to help improve their appearance but you will ultimately have to clip your ends and be mindful of things like heat styling, having a hair care routine in place and using the proper products for your hair on a regular basis. Also hair doesn’t grow faster when you cut it. Hair growth comes from the root. Not the ends. Snip Snip.

Oily Skin Doesn’t Need Moisturizer. The oil in one’s skin is not a moisturizer, which is something ALL skin types need. When someone with oily skin does not wear a moisturizer, the skin actually overcompensates for a lack of moisture by over-producing sebum, thus making you more oily and shiny. And even with all of that extra oil, your skin is still dry. It is best to use an oil free or mattifying moisturizer to help with shine as well as moisture.

Dry Skin Causes Wrinkles. Dry skin does not cause wrinkles. Overexposure to UV rays and other elements (aging, poor diet, genetics, smoking/drinking, etc) as well as the breakdown of collagen contribute to wrinkles. Dry skin can accentuate wrinkles but is not the culprit of said wrinkles.

Cellulite Can Go Away. Well not really but sort of – through measures such as surgery. Anyway, although fairly harmless, cellulite can be an annoying occurrence that appears on places such as thighs, belly and breasts. It is more common in women than in men and can become more prevalent in aging, pregnancy as well as weight gain. Even those who are fit or slender may actually have cellulite. Cellulite is caused by fat deposits pushing toward of the surface of the skin. The use of creams, depending on ingredients, can offer a temporary reduction in appearance of cellulite. There are some things you can do to improve the appearance of cellulite such as: hydrate, exercise/eat a healthy well balanced diet and possibly dry brushing. When you stay hydrated, you are helping to flush toxins and keep skin looking healthy. When you are dehydrated, skin can appear more dull and cellulite can appear more visible. Exercising can help build lean muscle and burn fat which can help cellulite appear less visible. Eating a well balanced diet with healthy fats and lean protein can help you maintain your personal healthy weight. Dry brushing is thought to help with lymphatic drainage as well as helps with the appearance of skin.

Black Skin Doesn’t Need Sunscreen. Melanin is wonderful and all but it doesn’t protect against the UV rays that lead to aging (UVA) and burning which can lead to skin cancer (UVB). Also – ALL. SKIN. BURNS. For example, if you put white bread, wheat bread and pumpernickel bread into the oven and leave it in too long, all of the bread will burn. You just won’t see the damage on the pumpernickel as well as you would the white bread. But all the bread is damaged. Same with skin. So please, EVERYONE, wear your sunscreen.

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These Are The Best Foundations For Deeper Skin Tones

In beauty, makeup, skincare on October 9, 2023 at 12:00 pm

Finding the perfect shade of foundation for your rich melanin skin tone is a breeze with these makeup and beauty brands.

Finding the right foundation shade can be a high pressure, sweat inducing, nail biting task. Almost like house hunting (but not as serious). And, like a house, your foundation has to be perfect. Aside from the basics such as the shade of the foundation, there are many other factors to take into consideration: undertone, level of coverage, finish, formulation and wearability. All of these factors determine if a particular foundation is right for your complexion and lifestyle.

For deeper skin tones, (especially those darker than a brown paper bag) just being included in the beauty conversation has been and still is an opportunity. This opportunity often translates into other areas like marketing, advertising, branding, funding and even the products themselves. In times past, deeper skin tones were not even included in the shade range line up of many popular or mainstream brands. To solve that problem, many found themselves mixing several shades together to create somewhat of a match. As time progressed, some mainstream brands made attempts to create shades for deeper skin tones with questionable success. Then there were brands such as Flori Roberts, Fashion Fair, Iman, Posner and Black Radiance who created lines that included deeper skin tones, oftentimes with images to reflect those who again were initially and intentionally left out of the beauty conversation. With these brands came more shade options – along with validation and affirmation.

Fast forward to today where there are more brands than ever creating foundations (and other complexion items) that include deep and dark skin tones. Technology, research and development is lending itself to better formulas, as well as more shades and undertones for product that looks and wears flawlessly on multiple ranges of skin tones.

Glossier Stretch Fluid Foundation For Buildable Coverage

This sheer to medium coverage foundation provides 12 hour wear with a natural finish and is vegan and cruelty free. The gel base is infused with skincare ingredients such as squalane and glycerin hydrate and smooth the skin. Amino acid coated pigments provide flexibility the skin needs for great blendability and seamless, comfortable wear.

Charlotte Tilbury Beautiful Skin Foundation

Beautiful Skin Foundation provides 16 hour wear and medium buildable coverage that hydrates (hyaluronic acid), brightens (rose complex), plumps (coconut extract) and smoothes giving skin that red carpet glow. Vegan and cruelty free, this foundation contains a Bix Active complex that reduces shine and blurs the look of pores. The neutralized base with clear color pigment allows flexibility in shade matching across multiple skin tone ranges.

Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay In Place Foundation

This classic foundation boasts over 55 shades with the perfect undertones that won’t make you look gray. Buildable medium to full coverage, oil free and lightweight, Double Wear provides 24 hour wear in a matte finish that will not make your skin dry.

Ami Cole Skin Enhancing Tint

Looking for a complexion product that will enhance your complexion and not cover it up, this will be you go to. This skin enhancing tint leaves a satin finish that blurs imperfections and leaves the skin radiant. Baobab extract nourishes, pumpkin seed extract which contains Vitamin E to nourish and calm the skin and hibiscus extract for antioxidant protection.

Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Medium Coverage Foundation by Lady Gaga. 

Many celebrity inspired and owned beauty brands leave a lot to be desired but not this foundation. Haus Lab foundation marks all the boxes of shade, undertone and wearability. Medium buildable coverage with a natural finish, this formula contains fermented arnica to help with redness irritation and common environmental aggressors such as repeated sun exposure, pollution, free radicals and second hand smoke. Great for all skin types including acne prone.

Sephora Best Skin Ever Foundation

You don’t have to break the bank to have a foundation that looks great on the skin. Best Skin Ever provides a medium buildable coverage with a natural finish that is hydrating and smoothing. Brown algae provides anti pollution shield that also helps to reduce the signs of stress and fatigue.

Clinique Even Better Clinical Serum Foundation Broad Spectrum SPF 25.

Believe it or not, Clinique is that brand. As popular as it is, particularly with it’s skincare, I do think this brand gets overlooked when it comes to makeup. The shades and the coverage are actually very good. This particular foundation is medium/full coverage with a natural finish. It is oil free, long wearing and contains hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid and vitamin c for skin that looks good even when your makeup is not on.

Pat McGrath Sublime Perfection Foundation.

This foundation literally melts in the skin. It is a lightweight medium coverage liquid foundation that leaves no trace or texture on the skin. Sublime Perfection Foundation contains several great ingredients for the skin including a vita serum complex that ensures the skin is hydrated and helps to minimize the appearance of wrinkles. A diamond core powder helps to enhance luminosity and to deflect away from other skin imperfections. Great for all skin types including oily.

Nars Natural Radiant Longwear Foundation.

Nars has long been a favorite when it comes to deeper shades and formulations. Longwear Radiant goes on smoothly, blends seamlessly and is medium to full coverage. It leaves a natural finish that isn’t overly radiant but leaves the skin looking healthy. Key ingredients include fruit extracts (raspberry, apple and watermelon) to help smooth skin texture for radiance. Best for normal dry and combination skin.

Fenty Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Liquid Foundation.

When Fenty dropped a few years ago with 50 all inclusive shades, it caused many brands to scramble frantically, pondering their purpose in life and the non-existent shades in their foundation lineup. This particular foundation is, as the name suggests, a soft lightweight matte foundation with buildable medium to full coverage. Pro Filt’r is more suitable for normal, oily and combo skin. For best results, be sure to moisturize your skin, prime and apply with a sponge or brush.

Maybelline Fit Me Matte + Poreless Foundation.

There are so many amazing makeup brands online, on social and in our favorite makeup specialty stores that it is easy to forget the gems at the local drug store. Maybelline Fit Me is one of those foundations. It has medium coverage and deeper shades that actually look nice and seamless on the skin. It is also pore minimizing and contains micro powders to blur and control shine. Perfect for normal to oily skin.

Too Faced Born This Way Foundation.

Too Faced usually does not miss when it comes to complexion products and this particular foundation is no different. Born This Way is an oil free foundation with coconut water and hyaluronic acid to soothe and hydrate the skin. Provides medium natural coverage and is great for all skin types including dry.

Fashion Fair Skinflex Stick Foundation.

This is one of the smoothest foundation sticks on the market. The application is effortless and the high coverage and superb blendability is A1. The inclusive range of shades provides for even the deepest, riches of skin tones. Key ingredients include aloe leaf extract to help hydrate and soften the skin. Antioxidant rich rice bran wax moistures without blocking pores. Full coverage with a semi matte finish. Great for all skin types.

Lancôme Teint Idol Ultra 24H Long Wear Matte Foundation.

In addition to deeper shades in the line up, there is the inclusion of undertones for those who may be more neutral. Although it is a matte finish, it still allows the skin to breath and appear life-like. Full coverage foundation best for normal oily and combo skin.

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For business inquiries regarding Beautygrind.com, email me at khalilah@beautygrind.com  or info@khalilahneals.com

Need one on one consulting, customization or updates for your beauty and fashion questions and concerns, visit khalilahneals.com  and fill out the “work with me” form.