beautygrind

What Is Bakuchiol And Is It Worth The Hype?

In beauty, skincare on September 5, 2022 at 12:00 pm

Growing older is inevitable. We know this. And there is nothing wrong with making adjustments to ensure that this process is smoother, and more graceful instead of throwing caution to the wind and letting life have its way with our health, well-being and even our looks.

Retinol has always been and will most likely remain the gold standard in skincare when it comes to preventing and softening the signs of aging. Derived from Vitamin A, retinol works on a cellular level to push newer cells to the surface. It instructs skin to produce collagen which is responsible for firm, plump skin. Retinol is an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial and can actually help with breakouts as opposed to or in addition to ingredients such as salicylic acid. As a matter of fact, Retin A from which retinol is derived was initially prescribed for acne. Patients who used it for acne noticed that their skin was more clear with less hyperpigmentation in addition to having fewer acne/breakouts.

But retinol can propose a downside for some users. Retinol can be extremely harsh on the skin. It can cause irritation, redness, peeling and drying. Not a good look for something that is supposed to be so helpful.

Enter bakuchiol. Ba-ku-chi-who? Bakuchiol (pronunced ba koo chee yol). Bakuchiol comes from the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant (psoralea corylifolia). It is native to countries India and Sri Lanka and is used in ancient Chinese and Ayurvedic skin treatments. Although bakuchiol is not new, it is gaining popularity as an effective skin care ingredient. So why the comparison to retinol? For starters although they are molecularly different, they have similar qualities. Bakuchiol is 100% plant derived and retinol comes from Vitamin A and is usually synthetically produced. They both help with brightening, firming, collagen production and hyperpigmentation. Bakuchiol, however, is perfect for sensitive skin and can be tolerated on eczema, psoriasis prone or active skin (breakouts). In these cases, retinol may not be as beginner friendly. Although it is probably best to use bakuchiol at night, some will use bakuchiol am and pm whereas retinol should be used in the evening followed by sunscreen in the morning. Bakuchiol is vegan friendly and is safe for pregnant and nursing women. On the other hand, it is recommended to refrain from retinol use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Overall there is no side effect with bakuchiol. With retinol it is suggested to gradually increase application and make sure you are using a moisturizer to counteract any side effects such as drying, peeling and redness. In addition, bakuchiol is good for mixing with other ingredients that could otherwise not be tolerated in some skin. The combination of retinol and AHA, BHA, and Vitamin can be too active or potent for more sensitive skin and can spell disaster.

When it comes to choosing bakuchiol or retinol, you would need to consider your skin type and whether are you sensitive or not. Do you prefer products that are vegan? Do you have certain views on the use of synthetics in skincare ingredients or does it matter?

There has been extensive research on the efficacy of retinol whereas the research on bakuchiol and its long term effects and uses is not as extensive as of yet. Read the directions on the product that you choose whether it is bakuchiol or retinol. Also, keep in mind that just because a product is natural doesn’t mean you wont have an adverse reaction to it.

Acure Radically Rejuvenating Dual Phase Bakuchiol Serum $19.99. This serum is dual phase product that is rich in powerful antioxidants and hydration as well as anti-aging support in the form of plant based bakuchiol.

Herbivore Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum $54. Perfect for the most sensitive skin, this serum will help smooth look of fine lines as well as help to retexturize and brighten the skin.

The Inky List Retinol Alternative Moisturizer $11.49. This cruelty free lightweight cream will help to moisturize will it softens fine lines, wrinkles, dullness and uneven texture.

Credo Beauty 1% Bakuchiol + Olive Squalane Oil Booster $10. This booster is made without a number of questionable ingredient and makes it easy to incorporate into your existing skincare routine. Bakuchiol will help with fine lines and wrinkles while squalane will boost hydration. Mix with your current moisturizer or serum or use by itself.

Paula’s Choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment $56. This treatment harnesses the power of retinol, bakuchiol and peptides to help fight wrinkles. dullness and loss of firmness and elasticity. The lightweight formula absorbs quickly into the skin.

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For business inquiries regarding Beautygrind.com, email me at khalilah@beautygrind.com

Need one on one consulting, customization or updates for your beauty and fashion questions and concerns, visit khalilahneals.com and fill out the “work with me” form.

15 Skincare And Makeup Mistakes To Stop Making Now

In beauty, makeup, skincare on June 27, 2022 at 12:00 pm

From the harshness of unblended highlight and contour to using dirty makeup brushes, chances are you have at some point or are currently making some major beauty faux pas.

Image courtesy of George Milton via Pexels

We all have our go to make up routines which includes our favorite tips, tricks and tools. But it is definitely possible that our go to make up habits could be doing more harm than good to our skin, tools and overall look. That’s ok because below is a list of 15 common beauty blunders that you might not be aware of and the solution to help fix said faux pas.

  1. Using Makeup Wipes To Clean Your Face. I’m not sure when using wipes as the only way to sufficiently cleanse your face became ok but stop it. So you’ve had a long night out and you are too inebriated and too tired to actually cleanse your face – a makeup wipe can help you out until you get yourself together. But please don’t make this a habit – the most a makeup cleansing wipe can do for you is superficially wipe the day off of your face. It will not ever deep clean the surface of your skin let alone get deep down into your pores after a day of wearing sunscreen and makeup and being exposed to the environmental aggressors of dirt, debris and smog. Do your current and your future skin a favor and use a cleansing balm or oil followed by an actual cleanser for your skin type. If you prefer using a makeup wipe, use it a part of your pre-cleanse.
  2. Tugging On The Eye Area To Remove/Apply Eye Makeup And Skincare. We’ve all been there: you stretch/pull at the corner of your your eyes to apply your eye liner, roughly rub your eyes to take off your eye makeup or pull and rub on your under eye area to apply eye cream or concealer. Stop it! The under eye area is the most delicate area of the face. Think of it like this: your face is like construction paper and your under eye area is delicate like tissue paper. The under eye area shows the first signs of aging and rough and tumble pulling and tugging can help accelerate the process. When it comes to removing eye makeup, use a cotton round with a makeup remover. Apply to the eye area and hold for about 10 seconds to loosen any eye makeup and gently swipe away. When it comes to applying eye liner, apply in sections across the lid and be sure to use a formula that glides on smoothly. Don’t pull on the corner of your eyes. When applying under eye concealer and eye cream, use a brush and/or your ring finger and gently press/tap into the skin.
  3. Not Treating The Under Eye Area With Eye Cream/Serum Before Concealer. At this point, eye creams/serums should be a part of your skin care routine. If not, no judgement. Just start now. By prepping with skin care, you will find that your concealer will lay better on your skin. It also prevents your makeup from looking dry and cakey and you won’t have to apply tons to look even and highlighted under the eyes.
  4. Not Using Color Corrector. Have you ever applied under eye concealer or even foundation and found that the shade and tone wasn’t sufficient? As a matter of fact, some areas looked gray? That’s because you most likely need to color correct first. Color correcting helps to neutralize blue, purple and brown undertones in the skin so that your actual complexion product will read more accurately. It all goes back to understanding color theory where opposite colors on the color wheel are not only complementary but those same complementary colors also cancel each other out. For instance, if you are experiencing redness, you would use green to color correct before applying your concealer or foundation. If you have blue tones under your eyes, you would use a corrector in the pink/peach/apricot spectrum, depending on your complexion range, to neutralize those tones before applying concealer or foundation.
  5. Not Cleaning Makeup Brushes Regularly. Have you ever gone so long with not cleaning your brushes that your brushes feel hard and somewhat stiff? When your brushes are dirty they don’t even perform the same and your make up doesn’t look as good as it could. More importantly, not cleaning your brushes is a great way to spread bacteria on the face. Can we say pimples? Anyway, using a brush cleaner like this one or this one not only cleans your brushes but helps to keep the bristles conditioned and is oftentimes anti-bacterial.
  6. Putting On Concealer Before Foundation. Foundation is just that – foundation. A base. It’s the building block for all of the other makeup you put on your face – well aside from good skin care. When you apply concealer first, as you apply the actual foundation, you actually wipe concealer away from the very place you were trying to conceal. Instead, apply foundation first then stipple/bounce concealer on top wherever the discoloration is. You may also find that you won’t need as much concealer when you apply foundation first. When it comes to the under eye, this can be particularly helpful as applying foundation first can help balance and perhaps color correct tones before you apply concealer.
  7. Not Blending Your Harsh Highlight And Contour. Chances are you aren’t on stage but in real life – at work, school or the grocery store. The somewhat extreme highlighting and contouring that we see on our social media feeds works better for stage and maybe television with various lighting conditions but those harsh, unblended lines of demarcation can be quite unappealing in real life. Consider blending more thoroughly for a softer, more complementary look.
  8. Using Too Much Product To Mark Out Highlight And Contour. Or using too much foundation in general. Bottom line – it’s TOO MUCH PRODUCT and takes unnecessary amounts off time and effort to blend. Instead of plastering your face with foundation, highlight and contour shades in intricate designs, try applying your foundation first. Then apply your highlight color (1-2 shades lighter, maybe 3 shades if you know how to blend) in the right undertone then blend. Then go in with your contour color and blend. Apply an illuminator/highlighter if you so choose. Blend that as well. Then take a brush and lightly blend the entire face. This way you will look soft, blended and radiant. Not a colorful ashy mess. *note* Applying your highlight first will actually expose the areas that naturally recede for contour. It is also easier to blend a contour (darker color) into a highlight as opposed to the other way around.
  9. Not Using A Moisturizer Because You Are Oily. Not using at lease an oil free (controls oil production) or mattifying (prevents appearance of oil, makes skin more matte) moisturizer is actually making you more oily. That is your skin overcompensating for the lack of actual moisture in the skin. The oil in the skin is not a moisturizer and the skin becomes more unbalanced when you don’t use a moisturizer to balance and protect your moisture barrier.
  10. Over-Washing Your Face. It is quite tempting to want to wash your face multiple times a day especially when you are oily and/or acne prone. However, just like not using a moisturizer when you are oily can have an adverse affect on your skin, over-washing your face can strip your skin, causing it to be dry, flaky and painfully irritated. You might also find that acne can get worse. When washing your face twice a day, consider using a mild low lather or creamy/oil cleanser like this or this for the morning and a cleanser for deeper cleanse for the evening to wash the day away like this one.
  11. Keeping Expired Makeup. Sure you may love the many items in your make up collection but it is very important to make sure that what you are putting on your face is not expired. Not paying attention to expiration dates can not only cause lack of performance of your favorite items but can also be a breeding ground for skin irritation and possible infection. Learn more about makeup shelf life and expiration dates here.
  12. Over-Filling Your Eyebrows. Good eyebrows are one of the most important features in giving good face. Well groomed brows bring shape and structure to the face. When you have neatly and beautifully shaped brows, you don’t necessarily need too much of anything else to look polished. It is recommended that you seek a professional too groom your brows. It’s one thing to have a natural full brow however filling in the brow too dark and over the natural shape can spell disaster. When filling in your brows, be sure to follow the natural shape of the brow and fill in only the sparse areas.
  13. Not Adjusting Your Foundation As You Age. It’s no secret that your body changes as you get older. This includes changes to your skin. What worked for you in your 20’s (i.e. powder foundation) may not work for you as you get older. Consider using liquid or serum based formulations that address dullness, fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration and dryness.
  14. Putting Makeup On Dry Skin. Not prepping the skin before makeup application. Your makeup reflects back to you what is going with your skin. If your skin is dry, your makeup will look dry and cakey. You will also find that your makeup doesn’t glide and apply very smoothly to your skin. Be sure to prep with a good moisturizer and hydrating primer before applying your foundation.
  15. Putting Too Much Emphasis On Both Eyes And Lips. How you choose to wear your makeup is entirely up to you. However, consider focusing on one feature such as the eyes and let your other features play a supporting role with complementary tones, textures and finishes. Doing so prevents your look from becoming too under or overwhelming. It also brings balance to the features.

Have you made any of the mistakes listed above or do you make mistakes that weren’t even listed above? Leave a comment down below.

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For business inquiries regarding Beautygrind.com, email me at khalilah@beautygrind.com

Need one on one consulting, customization or updates for your beauty and fashion questions and concerns, visit khalilahneals.com  and fill out the “work with me” form.

Your Beauty Products Have A Shelf Life. Many Of Your Favorites Are Probably Expired.

In beauty, makeup on June 8, 2022 at 12:00 pm

Parting is such sweet sorrow but there is a chance that some of the makeup you used today is old or expired. Learn when to throw away your favorite beauty products to ensure product performance and personal safety.

Everyone knows that you are a beauty enthusiast. You jump at every opportunity to add newness to your expansive collection of lipsticks, lip glosses, eyeshadow palettes, highlighters and bronzers. Just seeing these items on your vanity brings a level of joy and satisfaction unexplainable – even if you haven’t used half of these products in several months. It’s ok. No judgement here.

Watching your favorite social media influencers, bloggers and celebrities with their highly stylized makeup/beauty organization systems that hold the latest and greatest in-demand beauty items only makes you actually leave the house just to buy more product to use and display. Or place and Amazon and Ikea order. And let’s not even talk about that order that is already coming in the mail:  I stalk You stalk the delivery guy, staring out of the window, making sure the doorbell is still working and incessantly check the tracking status to see where my your packages of hopes and dreams are – although the order was just placed 3 minutes ago.

But what happens after the initial joy of said new makeup and other beauty products wear off?  Like the older, once beloved products, they get tossed to the side, stored away in a drawer somewhere and forgotten about. That is until you decide to wear it again. But before you bring that lipstick and blush back into rotation, proceed with caution because chances are that product may have expired. What’s important here is understanding that your beauty products have a shelf life and to ensure optimal product performance and personal health and safety, it is important to be aware of the symbols and dates on the packaging.

What Is Makeup Shelf Life?

Just like the foods we enjoy, the makeup we use has a shelf life. When you open up a carton of milk or your favorite chips, its only a matter of days until the milk goes sour and those chips become stale and less enjoyable. Not to mention the fresh fresh fruits and veggies from the produce section without the preservatives. After 2 or 3 days, these food become a soggy, smelly, moldy mess. It’s a similar concept with your makeup and other beauty products.

Mold and bacteria are the culprits when it comes to makeup going bad. Makeup can be preserved for a period before it actually reaches you.  These products will eventually go bad but it will take longer because they are not opened and are usually stored in a cool dark place, preserving the shelf life.  For the purpose of this discussion however, we will discuss the shortened shelf life of product after purchase, when it is opened and exposed to various conditions.

All makeup has an expiration date or a PAO – Period After Opening. An expiration date, whether or not a package is opened, indicates the span of time up until the stated expiration date that a product is expected to perform before it degrades and without any adverse reaction to the user. The PAO is usually marked on the back of packaging with a small jar with a number in it.  This number indicates the life span of that product after opening.  Since most people don’t keep the original packaging their product comes in, it’s a good idea to write the date you opened the product or keep a log.  Sure this is extra work but makeup that has gone bad is a breeding ground for bacteria and can cause a host issues such as skin and eye irritation, site swelling, breakouts and infections that may require medical attention.

With that said, how do you know when to throw your makeup and other beauty products away?  When there is a change in color, texture, consistency, odor or performance as well as unusual separation of the product. If your product is preservative free, you will definitely need to be mindful of the shelf life.  Keep the following guidelines in mind when purchasing and storing product:

  • Control the temperature your makeup is stored in.  If possible, don’t keep your makeup in the bathroom where the temperatures fluctuate consistently and definitely do not leave your makeup in your car.
  • Don’t share your makeup and replace eye makeup after an eye infection.
  • Wash your hands before using your product.
  • Avoid jars when possible.  Every time you open a jar and stick your fingers in your product, it becomes contaminated.  Using a spatula can minimize the growth of bacteria.
  • Use a makeup sanitizer spray.  Also use a tissue to wipe off layer of uncertainty and make sure you clean your brushes.
  • Although it can be more economically sound to purchase the larger size of something, consider how often you will use the product.
  • If you find that you need to dispose of a product, do so by putting it in the garbage instead of pouring down the drain to avoid clogging the drain and contributing to contaminated water ways.

Below is a list of the estimated shelf life after opening for frequently used products (give or take):

Foundation

Oil Free – 12 months

Cream and Liquid – 18 months to 2 years

Concealer

Powder and Stick – 18 months to 2 years.

Liquid and Cream – 6 months to 1 year.

The closer these products are to liquid for the sooner it should be thrown away.

Powder

Foundation, Blush, Bronzer, Highlighter (loose or pressed) – up to 2 years.

Be sure to use clean tools when applying to minimize transferring of bacteria from brush to product to skin.

Eye Liner

Pencils can last up to 18 months. By sharpening the pencil before use, you will shave off some of the layer of uncertainty. You will know when to throw away when the pencil begins to crumble when sharpening or there is a white film that wont come off when sharpening. Be sure to sanitize your sharpener as well.

Liquid and gel – 3 months

Cream Eye shadow

Up to 6 months. Consider throwing away sooner if it’s a pot that you use your fingers to apply the product.

Mascara 

Up to 3 months. If the smell and consistency changes before then, throw it away.

Lipstick, Liquid Lip Stain and Lip Gloss

Up to 1 year. Traditional lipsticks may last a little longer because the top layer can be sanitized with alcohol and shaved with a lint free paper towel. It’s also a good idea to replace these items if you’ve been sick.

Lip Liner

Up to 12 months. Use the same rule of thumb for eyeliner pencils (above).

Brushes

2-5 years, sometimes longer with proper cleaning, conditioning, and storage. Sponges should be cleaned or thrown away after a couple of uses.

Nail Polish

Nail polish doesn’t go bad as quickly because of the solvents/ingredients in it. But once separation occurs that isn’t fixed with shaking the bottle, it’s probably time to throw it away. The same thing goes for polish that has become thick and goopy. If using paint thinner (nail polish remover) doesn’t help, throw the nail polish away.

How consistent are you with throwing away older beauty products? Share your comments below.

Loved this post?  Subscribe to beautygrind to receive the latest blog posts filled with resources, tips, tricks, and inspiration delivered to your inbox. 

For business inquiries regarding Beautygrind.com, email me at khalilah@beautygrind.com

Need one on one consulting, customization or updates for your beauty and fashion questions and concerns, visit khalilahneals.com and fill out the “work with me” form